Artificial grass in San Jose lives or fails underground. The turf you see depends entirely on what lies beneath it: the base rock, the compaction, the drainage path, and the infill that props up every fibre. This guide walks you through each layer, from soil preparation through finishing details, so you understand what separates a turf installation that lasts from one that settles, smells, or pulls apart at the seams within a year.
Whether you are converting a lawn that has turned to dust in our long dry summers, building a dog area that will not turn to mud, or preparing a patio for a pool surround, the principles are the same. You will learn what questions to ask, what to demand in writing, and how to verify that any installer, including ours, has done the work correctly.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material that sits on top of and within the turf fibres. It serves multiple purposes: it props the grass blades upright so they look and feel natural, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight so the turf stays in place, and it helps water drain through the system. The type you choose depends on your use and your priorities.
Silica sand is the traditional ballast and remains the most common infill. It is inexpensive, widely available, and does the job of weight and drainage. Silica sand particles are angular and can feel sharp underfoot if you walk barefoot frequently. Coated sand uses the same silica base but rounds the grains and often adds a colour coat so the infill looks less visible and feels slightly softer. It costs more than plain silica but is gentler on bare feet and on pets' paws.
Zeolite is a mineral that absorbs odours and moisture. It is often blended with sand or used as a top layer in pet turf and dog run installations to help control smell. Zeolite does not eliminate odour on its own; it works best in combination with regular cleaning and good drainage. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, such as Envirofill, add a treatment to the sand grain to reduce bacterial growth and lower the surface temperature of the turf in direct sun. These products cost more but can make a difference in high-heat areas or where odour control is a priority.
Crumb rubber, made from recycled tyres, is used in sports fields and gyms because it provides impact cushioning for athletes. It is not recommended for residential yards or pet areas because it retains heat, can stain clothing, and requires specialized maintenance.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill quantity is specified in pounds per square foot, and this number matters more than most homeowners realise. A typical residential installation uses between 2 and 4 pounds per square foot, depending on the turf product, the pile height, and the intended use. Pet areas and play zones often call for the higher end of that range because more infill keeps the fibres standing upright under foot traffic and helps anchor the turf against the pulling and digging that pets do. A putting green or sports surface may use 3 to 5 pounds per square foot for a firmer, more consistent playing surface.
Too little infill is a shortcut taken by installers cutting corners. Under-filled turf looks thin and matted, the fibres flatten and do not spring back, and the backing is exposed to sun damage. The infill also helps with drainage by creating channels for water to flow through, so insufficient infill can trap moisture and lead to odour problems, especially in pet areas. Always ask your installer for the infill specification in writing before work begins, and ask them to confirm the weight per square foot they are using. This is not a detail to skip.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The path water takes from the surface down through the turf and into the soil below is critical. Start by removing the existing lawn, any old turf, and all roots and debris. If the old turf is lifting or has failed seams, remove it entirely rather than laying new turf over it. Once the area is cleared, excavate to remove compacted soil and create a level or slightly sloped base. The slope should fall away from your house and away from any pool or patio so water does not pond against structures.
Next, lay a weed barrier (a permeable landscape fabric) over the soil. This stops weeds from growing up through the turf and through the infill. Do not use plastic sheeting; it blocks drainage and traps moisture. Over the weed barrier, install a free-draining base layer, typically 3 to 4 inches of decomposed granite or crushed base rock, compacted firmly in lifts with a plate compactor. This base is what carries water away and prevents the turf from settling or developing dips.
For patios, balconies, and hard surfaces, or for pet areas where drainage is a priority, add an optional draining underlay or foam pad over the base rock before the turf goes down. This pad provides a softer feel underfoot, improves drainage in high-use zones, and helps manage moisture in pet areas. On concrete or existing pavers, the underlay is essential because water cannot drain through the slab. Never glue turf flat to concrete without an underlay and edge drainage system; standing water will pool, smell, and eventually damage the backing.
Base Prep on San Jose Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
San Jose sits on the flat floor of the Santa Clara Valley, where the native soil is hard adobe clay. This clay is dense, compacts easily, and drains poorly. When it is dry, it becomes rock-hard and cracks. When it is wet, it stays wet. This is the soil condition that makes base preparation so important: if you lay turf on unworked clay, water will not drain, the base will not compact evenly, and you will end up with soft spots, puddles, and odour problems, especially in a pet area.
Proper base prep means excavating the clay to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, then backfilling with decomposed granite or crushed base rock (a mixture of stone dust and small gravel). This material is free-draining and compacts firmly when worked with a plate compactor applied in multiple passes, or lifts. Compaction is not optional and not something to rush. An uncompacted base is why turf settles unevenly, develops dips that hold water, and why seams lift as the ground shifts beneath them. The base must be graded with a slight fall away from the house and away from pools or patios so surface water runs off rather than pooling. If the site has existing drainage problems, standing water, or a high water table, those issues must be addressed before turf goes down. In some cases, that means installing a French drain or improving the site grading. If the water problem is severe and cannot be fixed, the turf installation should not proceed.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass itself is designed to drain quickly. The turf backing is either perforated (with small holes punched through) or fully permeable (woven so water passes through the entire surface). Drainage rate is measured in gallons per hour per square foot. A typical residential turf drains at 20 to 30 gallons per hour per square foot, which is fast enough to handle normal rain and pet accidents. A playground or high-traffic pet area might specify a higher drainage rate, 40 gallons per hour or more, to handle heavy use and quick drying.
However, fast-draining turf fails on a base that does not drain. If the base is clay, uncompacted, or sloped toward the house, water will collect under the turf and have nowhere to go. This is why the base preparation and site grading come first. For hard surfaces like patios and balconies, or for pet areas where drainage is critical, an underlay or drainage pad sits between the base and the turf. This pad is typically made of recycled rubber or foam and has its own drainage channels. It lifts the turf slightly off the surface, allows air to circulate, and helps water move sideways as well as down. On concrete, edge drainage is essential so water does not pool at the perimeter. Ask your installer for the drainage rate of the turf in writing and confirm that the base and site grading will support it.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a professional installation from a rushed one are visible in the seams, edges, and finish. Seams in artificial grass are joined with seam tape and a flexible adhesive applied to both the backing and the tape. The two pieces of turf are then pressed together with the grain running in the same direction. A well-done seam is nearly invisible when the turf is standing up and the infill is spread evenly. A visible seam, one that is raised or shows a gap, signals that the seam was not properly adhered, the grain was not aligned, or the turf is lifting because the base has settled or shifted.
Edges are secured with galvanized nails or staples driven through the turf backing into the base, typically spaced 6 to 12 inches apart depending on the product and site conditions. The perimeter is finished with bender board, metal edging, or a secured landscape border so the turf does not curl or pull away. On patios and pavers, the turf is cut tight to the edge so there is no overhang or gap where water can collect or animals can dig. On pool surrounds, the cut is precise so the turf sits flush against the cool deck or coping.
After the turf is laid and nailed, it is power broomed. A power broom is a mechanical brush that stands the fibres upright and spreads the infill evenly across the surface. This step is what makes the turf look full and natural. Without it, the turf looks flat and the infill is clumped in patches. A final walkover or light raking ensures the infill is distributed and no seams or edges are visible.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, ask your installer for a written specification that includes every detail of the installation. This spec protects you and gives you a standard against which to judge the finished work. A complete spec includes the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimetres, the backing type (perforated or fully permeable), and the drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot. It specifies the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot. It states the base depth and base material (for example, 4 inches of compacted crushed rock), and it describes the weed barrier, the seam method, the edging type, and the cleanup and haul-off of old turf and debris.
The spec should also include the workmanship warranty period, typically one to three years on the installation itself. This is not a manufacturer warranty; it covers the quality of the work your installer performed. Ask for the spec in writing and keep it. When the work is complete, you have a reference to confirm that the job was done as promised. If you see a lifted seam, soft spots in the base, or uneven infill distribution, you have the spec to point to.
For a free on-site estimate, we measure your yard, assess the soil and drainage, and provide a written spec before any commitment. Our pricing page explains how costs are calculated and what to expect. We are fully insured, and we name the product, face weight, pile height, infill, and base depth in writing so you know exactly what you are getting.